Saturday 27 December 2014

Uganda’s female and male hot springs

Have you ever passed your palm over a pan of boiling water? What did the steam do to you?  Many times it leaves an irritating burning sensation. You cannot help but check from time to time if your skin is bruised or not. 
Being at the hot springs feels almost like that. It is so hot that foods like eggs and Irish potatoes can boil in under 15 minutes and meat would be ready in about half an hour.




It feels like you are being bathed with hot steam. It is no wonder that the guides advise that you wear light clothes when going there.
One of the people we were with did not heed to this advice. But even before we had completely toured the first hot spring, he had taken off his shirt. He stayed in his vest only because he could not walk around bare chested.  

Each of the hot springs is surrounded by forestry and is veiled in a cloud of steam, one has an interesting reed walkway.
Semiliki National Park, the home of the hot springs is about 330km away from Kampala, an equivalent of a six hours’ drive. The now wider road from Fort portal town has tens of corners so you just cannot rush the trip. One of the wider bends offers good photo moments. 
The vast green vegetation along the road makes for good scenery. It is wild and beautiful. The guided tour that leads to the hot springs is filled with noises of birds singing and if you are lucky, you will spot a monkey or two.
The hot springs are boiling springs with bubbles that sprout out to a height of about 2meters. It is amazing and yet the guide says in the 1990s they used to sprout higher but have now reduced probably because of climate change.

That they are called female and male is very interesting. It makes you draw all sorts of visuals in your mind. Forgive the stereotypes, but I could not help wondering if the male hot springs sprouted out violently and looked rugged, something resembling a macho man. I wondered if the female hot springs were like a lady; gentle and graceful. But no, in fact if they were to be personified, you would think they switched sexes.
Their names make sense when the guide explains that a tribe from the area, the Bamaga named the springs. They believe that they represent their ancestors; a male and female that mysterious disappeared at each of these spots. To date, from time to time, people belonging of the tribe go the spots and perform various rituals to appease the ancestors so that they bless them.
We walked to the hot springs but there is an option of a boat ride that the bird watchers might prefer.


Before going to the hot springs
But just before starting the tour, carry some eggs or Irish potatoes to boil just so you prove how hot the water is. Another amazing thing is that the water is salty as well, you do not need salt for the foods boiled in it. There is a scientific explanation for that.
You should also carry a lot of water and you are better off wearing closed shoes or hire gumboots at the park.

Other places to visit
You can plan your trip in a way that you make stops at the equator, Lake Mburo National park, Kyambura forest reserve and Queen Elizabeth National Park before proceeding to Bundibugyo district where Semiliki is located. On your way back, check out the beautiful places Fort portal has to offer. But if you are not used to travelling for long distances, it is advisable to spend a night in a nearby town like Fort portal and then heading there the following day.

If you intend to camp in Semiliki, you are better off going with everything you think you will need, buying supplies from the nearby places is tricky because you will not get all you need. Whatever you choose, a tour hot springs will most probably leave you with sweat dripping down your back and droplets on your forehead.

Banura